World Cup Fever

You all must be curious about this fever, this World Cup mania. When I left for my trip, South Africa did not look ready to host the world. Five weeks later, the streets are lined with the South African flag, banners for the World Cup are decorating the buildings, and every business advertises some sort of “World Cup Special” in their windows. The sound of vuvuzelas become constant and the streets are filled with children playing soccer [because every school is on holiday for the World Cup]. Every commercial, newspaper article and magazine feature was about the World Cup. South Africa looked like a country ready to host the world and cheer on their team.

But on June 11th, a transformation happened. Driving through the town I was overwhelmed with all the yellow everyone was wearing—80% of the people were wearing their Bafana Bafana shirts to support South Africa in the opening game against Mexico. The South African flag was everywhere: painted on people’s faces, flying out of cars, wrapped around people’s bodies as dresses and capes. Vuvuzelas buzzed in the streets and makarapas [hard hats cut up and decorated] stood out in the crowds. Everyone honked their horns in celebration, not using their words but their smiles to connect with anyone dressed to support the South African team. [I will be posting pictures that I took from the car at a later date, but until then the pictures below should give you a good idea of what I was looking at!]

In our car the popular World Cup song “Wave Your Flag” was blaring in the speakers. Bongani blew my vuvuzela [which I decorated with an SA flag] out one window and I waved his full-sized SA flag out the other side. The energy from everyone was contagious. I waved that flag as much as I could, as I had never been more ‘proudly South African.’ Everyone on every street instantly became friends as they were all rooting for a single cause: South Africa. Black, White, Indian, Coloured…. Race fell away. Prejudices evaporated. The fear of AIDS and rape and crime faded with the sadness that I had seen blanketing this country’s population just months before. Everyone was united for South Africa and suddenly nothing else mattered. It was the most beautiful thing I have seen in South Africa, and suddenly it dawned on me that the South Africa I was leaving was not the same South Africa I had entered last August. The World Cup had united a country that is still trying to patch itself together, and that sight literally brought tears to my eyes. It was a new South Africa, and I had seen it with my own eyes. I pray that this World Cup will be a turning point for South Africa, and will continue this positive sense of hope long after all the soccer games have ended.

We were desperate to watch the opening game of the World Cup with other South African fans. We went to Woodburn Stadium, where they were charging R50 per person. Ha! Everyone entered the parking lot and went straight back out. We thought surely the local Harry Gwala Stadium, where they had broadcasted the rugby World Cup—and the empty stadium failed to deliver.

“Well B,” said Bongani,” we’re going to Indumiso.” He could tell I was confused. “We’re going to the township!” We drove to a soccer field that had a big screen television and a stage sponsored by Boxer, a grocery store chain. It was packed. Of course, the joining of all races I spoke of previously instantly evaporated considering that not many white, coloured, or Indian people were about to go watch the game in a township. The crowd was on fire-- marching to the soccer field, singing and blowing their vuvuzelas in sync, decked out in Bafana Bafana gear. [In case you haven’t realized, “Bafana Bafana” is the name of the South African soccer team. It translates literally into “Boys Boys.”] The energy was contagious and I was incredibly happy to be watching the opening game in the midst of South Africans. Men, women, kids of all ages, walked on dirt roads and skipped their dinners to watch this game.

Hundreds of us stood in the field, staring at the screen, vuvuzelas buzzing as if we were at the stadium itself. The game started. The crowd watched and the noise levels were so high that I could not actually figure out which language the game was being broadcasted in despite the huge speakers facing me [and the game was to be broadcasted in all of South Africa’s 11 official languages]. Then, THEN SOUTH AFRICA SCORED THE FIRST GOAL OF THE 2010 WORLD CUP. The crowd went wild and spirits were lifted even higher than before. South Africa was excited—yes, I am going to assume that all of South Africa was as ecstatic as the group jumping around me. I don’t know how to tell you how exciting it was!

The energy continued through the game until Mexico scored… and there were too many close calls on the SA goal. The crowd fell silent [I realized we were watching the game broadcasted in English] and everyone looked up at the screen in hopes we would come back. It started to rain but everyone stood still, glued to the screen, praying we would score another goal… or rather, that Mexico would not.

The game ended 1-1, a draw between Mexico and South Africa. For most of the game, SA was winning and everyone wanted to keep it that way. Imagine the upset! What a fairytale for SA, a victory for the underdog! Doing what seemed impossible, beating all odds! It would have been amazing to win that game, but in the end we all left with a little hope in the fact that SA didn’t lose. And for that, everyone still waits for the SA vs. Uruguay game with an expectation of victory.

In case you haven’t been following the soccer craze, the USA vs. England game also ended in a 1-1 draw. Many expected England to win—and I will admit they were playing much better [the ball was mostly in their possession, they took many more shots on goal, and I kept screaming “ROONEY! GET AWAY FROM MY GOAL!!!” at the television]. But once again, I am happy we didn’t lose, as it had been predicted. Woohoo!

Halala eMelika noMzanzi! Ayoba Bafana Bafana! Laduuuuuuuuma!!!!